Você Não é Daqui: How to Assimilate With a Cara da Gringa

The Foreigners

Yet another country and yet another adventure. These past 3 weeks trying to fit in as a complete Gringa in Brazil has been, to say the least, an experience. Though again, I stand out like a sore thumb- a common theme during my travels the past few years, I can honestly say I can already call this place a home. It is actually becoming a problem that I integrate myself into life in other countries so well that I could see myself living there. Looks like I will need a good paying job to be able to have dream houses in all these places I guess? I think I must qualify my statement about being integrated into daily life here- I see myself as integrated.. I walk with confidence, know how to order my coffee “para viagem”, get my Açaí smoothie as a regular at Nova Charmosa, and I know the streets around my neighborhood like the back of my hand. I run with all the residents on the main avenida and even embarrassingly do sprints  in the park with all of the guitto-looking body builders. I know how to meet and greet, and order at a restaurant. BUT, I do not think I am perceived as being integrated. I will forever be asked, "Você não é daqui, certo? Eu sei que você não é." In English, “you are not from here are you? I know you are not.” This is something that will probably anger me in the future, but I know that unless I go to Sweden or any other Nordic country, this will always be the case anyways. It is time for me to face the facts. I have a Cara da Gringa and Cabelos Estranhos como uma Loira.

These past three weeks have seemed like months. My study abroad program has been doing a great job in making sure that us students see every cultural thing possible before they let us little baby ducklings go into the real college world. I have seen so many museums and places within São Paulo, yet this city and state are so large that I don't think I could possibly see everything in 6 months. 

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

My Family and Neighborhood

Museo da America Latina

I live with Tânia and Elcio Moreno on the border of bairros Sumaré and Perdizes. They have a daughter named Maite who will be getting married to her fiance Leandro in April (I'm crossing my fingers hoping that I will be invited!) My parents do not speak a word of English, but we communicate in Spanish-Brazilian. I really lucked out because my parents run a restaurant, around the corner from where we live and since Tânia is a nutritionist- I get very good, yet healthy food. I can eat there every day all day for free and they have everything from salad, to pizza to pasta to amazing Carne, and of course the traditional dishes like Bolinhas de Bacalhau, Feijoada, fish casseroles and other yummy rice dishes. Our apartment is small but very safe with 24 hr security. The only downside (or I guess a healthy upside) is the enormous hill I must walk up everyday. That is the other thing. San Francisco has nothing on the ladeiras of Brazil. No wonder women here have big behinds. I am a block up from the main road, which is filled with runners, walkers and dogs everyday all day, even during the torrential rain and crazy lightning storms that defined the first two weeks here. I am a 10 minute walk from the university, and I live a minute away from one of the girls in my program. This could not have been a more perfect location for me to be placed. The only hard part is the metro, which is a 15 minute walk, but I think I can survive. 
This is a big and exciting city, and also a city that never sleeps. The most intense partying goes on after the hours of 1 and 2am, and so too does the most intense construction. This part has been a bit unfortunate, but I will get used to it. 

The People
Whereas Hong Kong people were the most respectful people I have ever met, Brazilians are the most hospitable. Sure they may not respect time commitments, and Brazilian time has still not been something I, as a very timely and efficient American, have been able to get used to, but they are sure amazing hosts.  They are also very warm and welcoming people. Sometimes the friendliness is a bit overbearing, and can seem creepy at first, but its a part of the culture and it means no harm. The way Paulistanos speak is amazing. Their portuguese is very pure, and has a tint of Italian influence, making it even more beautiful. The one thing I love about how they speak, is the -y they add to almost every word. Take for example, a simple word like Picnic. It is spelled piquienique- but pronounced: "picynicky". Any foreign word will always have an -y at the end in spoken form. Even the university I am going to PUC = Pooky. Also my favorite- Facebook = faceybooky.

Concert on Anniversary of São Paulo 

Brazilian people are very proud to be Brazilian, and São Paulo people are incredibly proud to be Paulistas, and even more proud to be Paulistanos. A Paulista is anyone born in the state of São Paulo, and a Paulistano is someone born in the city of São Paulo, what they call the best city in all of Brazil. I can see where they get their pride- this city is booming in infrastructure, business, entrepreneurship and education. In comparison to what I hear about other places in Brazil, São Paulo is exceeding beyond belief.

Praça de Sé

The Places
Avenida Paulista was the swanky street where we stayed our first few nights in a hotel. It has a bunch of high-end shops and restaurants.

CIEE has shown us to just about every museum imaginable as part of our culturalization including: Museo da America Latina, Pinocoteca, Estação do Luz, Praça de Sé, Teatro Municipal, Patio de Colegio, Museo do Futebol, Museo da Lingua Portuguesa, Museo Afro-Brasiliero

Museo do Futebol

We have been to many different types of night scenes already. Here the famous discotecas are called balladas, and they usually do not get going until 1am. You can find everything here from Funky music, to Electro, to Samba/ Merengue, and even Salsa and gay clubs. My host mom is convinced that I will find my Brazilian husband at a ballada since her last student from USC found met her husband at one. I try to explain to her that this is rare, but nevertheless she encourages me to go often. The bars here are varied as well. You can find everything from sports bars to jazz bars. One of the most notable that I have been to was one in Vila Madelena neighborhood, where our group had an encounter with a guy named Felipe, who looks and acts exactly like Zach Galifianopis in the Hangover.

The metro is very clean, and airconditioned, depending on the train. It is not as advanced as the system I was used to in Hong Kong, but it is entertainment in itself. Whereas in Hong Kong no one would speak or touch on the metro, in São Paulo, people don’t mind being very close, or loud. My favorite experience was sitting on the same metro as some Futebol fans just getting back from a game… they were letting all hell break loose running up and down the train, jumping everywhere chanting their fight song. It was hilarious.

One of my favorite things about SP are the parks. Though I have only had the chance to explore 2, I am very satisfied with these open, peaceful spaces that have educational study spaces outside, all kinds of recreational activity- even ballroom dancing and aquariums. Not to mention those who dare can enjoy a casual jousting match just like that right out of the hangover. SP is made for all types of people.

I have been on one beach excursion and that one time made we wish that I lived closer to the beach already. Besides the fact that I got more burnt than ever before, the beaches are so nice here, and Santos reminds me a lot of Venice beach with the body builders and exercise fanatics showing off their toned bodies as the rollerblade down the walkways. One thing that will be a bit hard for me to get used to, however, is the bikini style. It is true- no matter what size one may be, a true Brazilian does not cover up. I stood out like a gringa in full bottoms. Not to worry though- I have bought the most modest of Brazilian bikinis to sport eventually when I dare.

On the weekends, and near the end of the week, you can find a feira (farmers market) in almost every part of the city. One can just take the metro and stop in a location and it is almost certain there will be a fair full of pastels, arts and crafts, clothing and fresh fruit.

BEACH

Though my family has tried to force me to eat at their restaurant for free as often as possible, I love to explore the restaurant scene here. The Japanese food here is AMAZING, and I have found my new favorite café, Zetha Caffe around the corner from PUC where the owners love to practice their English with us.


The Food and Drink
Probably my favorite thing about Brazil so far has been the incredible coffee and fruit variety. Never in my life before have I tasted more kinds of fruits, and different varieties of coffee. Coffee runs through the veins of everyone here. Probably why this is a place that never sleeps..

Açaí is my new favorite, and I drink it everyday. The cheese is plentiful here along with the delicious meat, so a vegan would be very out of place at any restaurant here.  Eating by the Kilo at many restaurants is popular. At these restaurants, like my host parents’, it is common to find dishes like Pastels de Camarão e Palmito, feijoada, strogonoffe de Frango, coxinhas and much more. Lanchonettes are little café/ snack shops that are famous for any fried pastry or Pão de Quiejo (cheese bread). You can also find delicious brigadeiros (fudge balls) everywhere.

Of course, I cannot forget to mention the famous caipirinhas, made with all different kinds of fruit flavors and the national liquor of choice- cachaça, which I can vouch for is not the best of tastes, but is very similar to the strength of tequila. For those who cannot handle this strong beverage, they do make caipiroskas, which substitute vodka for the cachaça.

My view

Looking Forward

In the next few weeks, I am looking forward to many things. We start school today and I have already gotten a little taste of the education system here- basically, instead of classes actually starting 2 weeks before Carnival, it is customary to have only the hazing of new students start within the next few weeks during what they call “Trote” week. I tried to go to my first two classes this morning and had to run for my life from people carrying buckets of eggs and paint, only to find that my professors didn’t show up. The foreign students have official hazing today at 2pm. I am a bit nervous but it is all in the fun of meeting the students…. Right?

I am incredibly excited to be going to Rio de Janeiro for Carnival, and to be staying on Ipanema Beach. We will be there from 17-22 of February. This is something I have always wanted to do and it seems insane that I will actually be crossing it off my bucket list.

In the next few weeks, I plan to try to pick out of the four top futebol teams, which I will actually support. Santos is respected by all, but is not that good. My host dad is obsessed with Corinthians, and he says São Paulo is a good team too, but to never support the ultimate rival- the Palmeiras. I recommend for anyone coming here, and who would like to know more about a soccer rivalry- to watch the Romeo and Juliet palmeiras v. Corinthians version. It is a very dramatic, yet hilarious depiction of the futebol rivalry here.

Casually stealing the ball from one of the greatest Futebol players of all